New technology in hair straightening provides lustre, not damage

With fourteen for me came wayward ringlets. Embarking on a decade of image experimentation, this couldn’t have happened at a worse time. Going through a phase where we felt the need to rebel against everything, my friend and I would stare at ourselves in the mirror and debate what could be done to straighten our locks.

My friend’s father overheard us one day, and offered some advice. When he was a child, his older sisters would each pay him a quarter to iron their hair. We both agreed it was the perfect solution – immediately accessible, affordable and parentally sanctioned. Excited about our solution, we did not take the time to consider some of the potential ramifications of this procedure. As well, we had recently subjected our dark manes to a peroxide-based spray that promised to give us golden highlights in the sun… or with a hairdryer. Needless to say, our patchy, parched tresses didn’t take well to the extreme heat of the iron. Upon completion our hair was feebly intact, closely resembling straw, and residue hairspray had melted on the iron, which we later had to replace with our allowances.

Several months and deep conditions later, I was allowed to buy a flat iron from the drugstore for occasional use. Eventually, my mother bought me a professional one. Then I moved to Vancouver and realized that even my professional straightener did not wield the power that it had in the arid prairies. I decided to take it to the next level, only to meet with bad experiences in chemical straightening treatments. I conceded defeat and learned to love my curls.

Seeking Prairie Flats

Now, years later, my personal style more refined and reckless beauty treatments behind me, I continue to long for straight hair. With all the talented artists in Vancouver, it isn’t difficult to become educated, but I consider myself incredibly fortunate to have all of my questions answered by Chad Taylor, co-owner of Moods Hair Salon. Regularly called on as a “hair expert” by the Globe and Mail, Fashion Magazine and the Vancouver Sun, Chad is a recent winner of the 2011 Canadian Hairstylist of the Year award at the Toronto Mirror Awards.

Chad gave great accolades to a straightening treatment called KeraStraight. It’s a Brazilian keratin treatment (keratin being the key structural component in hair) that is 100 percent formaldehyde and aldehyde free, which makes it gentle on hair and safe to use while pregnant or breast feeding.

Chad said that KeraStraight can be used on any texture of hair for smooth, healthy, shiny hair.  It is safe to use on damaged hair; the duller and frizzier the hair, the more dramatic the results will be. As well, hair can be coloured up to two days prior or two days after the treatment, but Chad recommends having the colour done after as the results of the colour may lighten slightly. When the treatment is complete, the hair can be shampooed at any time using a shampoo that is sulphate-free and sodium chloride free. Tying the hair in a ponytail right after the treatment will not produce the adverse results seen with other smoothing systems. The results will last three to four months following the treatment as long as proper post-treatment products are used. It can be done more frequently without damage to the hair. With KeraStraight, there is no permanent chemical change in the hair.

The keratin protein slowly comes out of the hair so there is no regrowth area with chemical damage on the ends. In addition to having the ability to straighten almost all hair types, the stylist can adjust the process technique to maintain the curl, but still smooth the frizz and give shine to the hair. Chad told me the words that every curly haired gal longs to hear: “It’s great in humidity, too!”

You Flatter Me

Consulting the KeraStraight website (kerastraight.ca), I found a step-by-step description of what to expect from the appointment. The hair is washed with a pretreatment shampoo to soften and open up the hair shaft; then dried on medium heat until the moisture is gone. The straightening treatment is then applied to the hair in small sections, keeping close to but not on the roots, and evenly to the ends. The treatment is applied until hair is thoroughly dampened; development time isn’t usually necessary unless hair is virgin or very curly. Hair is dried again completely on medium heat; then locked in using straightening irons set at 210 degrees. Once ironed completely, the hair is given quick blast of cool air before washing with the maintenance shampoo.

Now used around the world, this evolution of beauty culture allows our curls to relax while keeping our ends from doing the splits. More important, it frees up precious time that would otherwise be relegated to personal maintenance, and keeps us looking great while dancing all night or walking in the rain.

New guests consistently tell me that their ultimate goal is to have beautiful, healthy and manageable hair – or in other words, no more bad-hair days. There are several causes of damaged, hard-to-manage hair. Often hair problems are caused by poor technical work (colour, highlights, perms or straightening), or from damage caused by prolonged exposure to sun, sea or chlorinated water. Damage from thermal styling (blow-dryers, flat irons and curling irons) is another major factor for hair damage.

Sometimes correcting the problem can be as simple as giving clients a good haircut or guiding them to shampoos, conditioners and styling products that are designed for their hair type or scalp condition. There are very real differences between professional hair-care products and mass-market products. Professional products are pH balanced for your hair and use a surfactant (cleansing agent) that is mild, while almost all mass market products have a pH level that is too high, so the cuticle of the hair is left open, and most use sodium lauryl sulfate – a very harsh, inexpensive cleansing agent. The result is dry, unmanageable hair. If you are experiencing premature colour fading, check your shampoo. Chances are your shampoo’s pH level is too high and the cleansing agent too harsh.

Even if clients have been using professional products, they may be products that are not ideal matches for their hair type or scalp condition. Today’s products are hair type and scalp condition specific, so always ask your hairdresser which products you should be using. Now we also have a wide variety of in-salon treatments that can work wonders on dry, damaged hair. Admittedly, there are some levels of severe damage that can’t be completely fixed in one appointment. If you fall into that category, work with your hairdresser to develop a plan to get your hair healthy.

Seasonal changes can cause some short-term scalp problems including dandruff. These are common and most salons have products that can help you with this. Hair loss is another issue that can affect hair quality and appearance. Some hair loss is normal; the average person loses 80 to 100 hairs per day. If you are experiencing more severe hair loss, it may be caused by Androgenic Alopecia, heredity, hormone problems, age, stress, medical conditions or medication. If you believe that you fall into this latter group you should seek a physician’s help.

For the majority of people, there are plenty of things you can do to protect, nourish and enjoy your hair. Below are the top ten secrets of beautiful hair:

1. Trim your hair at least every 6-8 weeks (more often if your hair is short). Damage to your hair is usually from the ends and the only long-term solution to split ends is to remove them. Also, hairs grow at different rates, so haircuts will keep your hair healthy and your style balanced.
2. Work with your hairdresser to determine the shampoo and conditioner best suited to your hair and scalp and avoid washing your hair every day. Shampooing every third day is ideal for most people as the natural oil that your scalp produces is nature’s way to condition your hair.
3. When shampooing your hair at home, massage your scalp gently to boost your circulation and improve overall hair health. Use cooler water, which will keep your hair’s cuticle closed.
4. Let your hair dry naturally when possible and rather than rubbing your hair dry; blot your hair to remove most of the water.
5. If you have longer hair use a wide-tooth comb to gently comb out any tangles and never use a brush on wet hair.
6. Avoid using hair-dryers, flat irons or curling irons when possible and always use a thermal protectant when you do use these tools.
7. If you use a round brush to style your hair, a natural boar bristle brush is best and it will help straighten your hair and add shine.
8. Use styling products designed for your hair type to address your needs. Your hairdresser can help you with this.
9. Avoid heat and prolonged exposure to sunlight, sea water or swimming pools, as each is harmful to your hair. If you are regularly in the sun or the pool, use protective products prior to each.
10. You don’t need to avoid hair colour or highlights, but have your hair coloured by specialists to give you the look you desire without unduly damaging your hair. Many of today’s colour products include conditioning elements and we now even have an ammonia-free colour line in INOA from L’Oreal Professional.

Above all, find a stylist you trust and check in regularly to have your hair trimmed and to discuss your changing needs. And enjoy your beautiful hair!